Philosophy
"I don't like having to 'twist threads'
to switch
a light on and off. Easy for the manufacturer, but not
necessarily the
best solution for the user.......”
“George's drivers, puts the
switch where
it should be, on the side, and offers dimming, switch lock out, choice
of two UI's, and many other great features.”
“ This
design works with primary or rechargeable batteries. I use
Li-Ion
rechargeables, (R-CR123a), and mate
them to Luxeon III led’s, from bins TYOH and
UYOJ, to deliver the light.”
“All metal reflectors,
either McR-20 or Nuwai's Q3,
give me the beam I like, and offer a good balance between flood and
throw.”
“Aluminum, and more
recently Titanium ,are used for the bodies.
Titanium, while slightly heavier, is the most marvelous material for a
small
EDC flashlight."
Like
many of us, I have an eclectic collection of lights. Amongst
them I have a few good ones, some click, and a few twist. I do not like the
‘twist switch’ lights, but for those that do,
McGizmo designs are the benchmark in quality and ingenuity.
But………
I do like a
thumb activated body switch.
Always have and always will.
So when I heard about the possibility of a driver with a small
side micro
switch soldered ‘on board’ I got excited. Direct
drive, regulated
drive, I did not care. I just wanted that switch position.
...........................................
Then
there appeared for sale a light
that used the switch I had heard about. The price was a little
out of reach for me at that time and
I had read reports on
the 'forums' of quality
control issues ( long since resolved). Still to this day I have never
owned or even handled one of these lights, built by Mr.Bulk, but have
seen many pictures and read many posts about them. Apart from the
switch, the
LC/LH lights are very simple and basic. Nothing wrong with that!
The switch, and it's simple but powerful UI, is brilliant in
it's design, execution and operation.
These features motivated me to see if I could build a light
incorporating this switch.
So I set about making my own version with an all metal reflector,
further ‘sputtered’ to give more of a flood. I stayed away from
knurling as IMHO it is unnecessary in a light where no twisting is
involved. Grooved
rings felt nice to me with the
base groove larger and
deeper for a paracord lanyard.
The internal machining of
the middle
section, housing the ‘board’,
was very tricky and time consuming. Getting it right was a
challenge
but the switch works faultlessly,and is well registered.
The
black rubber switch cover, with its groove, snaps in like a grommet,
and receives the
‘nub’ (red below in pic) of
the switch which then locks the cover in place, and registers the
driver
from revolving.
The black switch cover is
proud of the body, easily located with the thumb, and ‘locks
out’
electronically to avoid accidental activation.
Overall length is 3.33 inches with a weigh, including one r-cr123a
battery, of 84 grams. The current LED is a TYOH with a low Vf
of
3.4, supplying 1.2 amps.
Probably melt with the current I am putting through it. However it
can be replaced in under 5 minutes with
two simple solder
connections
should it burn out.
Suppliers.
22.00 mm Glass
window……….............…Flashlightlens.com
Metal
reflector………...........................…
The shoppe
Lux III
star……………...........................….Mr.Ted
Bear
Some electronic
‘bits’…….....................…Georges80
R-CR123 battery ,MP 700……................AW
Nano battery
charger……………….....……..AW
Black Rubber switch
cover…………...........LED
Lenser, Germany.
And others